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Frequently Asked Questions

Find answers to the questions we get the most!

Refacing Questions

What is cabinet refacing?

Refacing is a kitchen cabinet makeover. All visible parts of the cabinet are updated. Doors and drawer fronts are removed and replaced, so are hinges and hardware. All visible exterior surfaces are covered. Because the existing cabinet boxes stay in place, projects are usually simplified, without the time, mess and stress of renovating or refinishing.

How much will it cost to reface my kitchen?

Most refacing jobs typically cost between $1000 – $4000. If you know your total number of doors and drawer fronts, you can get a good idea of what to expect by using our Estimate Your Space calculator.

How do I know if cabinet refacing is right for me?
If you like the existing layout of your kitchen and your existing cabinets are structurally sound and in good condition, then Refacing may be a good option for your kitchen.
Is cabinet refacing eco-friendly?
Yes! With refacing, your existing cabinet boxes are reused, which keeps them out of landfills. Reusing your cabinet boxes also eliminates the materials needed to produce new ones and the emissions that go along with building and transporting them. Additionally, Front + Center® doesn’t use any VOCs in our engineered Fronts + Refacing Supplies.
How long does refacing typically take?

From the time you place your order, it will take 2-3 weeks to receive your new cabinet fronts. If you use this time to prep and paint your cabinet boxes, you can have a new kitchen in as little as 3 weeks from start to finish!

What type of paint should I use for my cabinet boxes?

We recommend using a high-quality, cabinet specific paint to ensure a lasting and smooth finish. You can find a variety of paint brands at your local hardware or paint store. When you’re getting a paint match, ask the specialist at the paint store which paint they recommend for cabinets.

What's the difference between refacing and refinishing?
  • Style: With Refinishing/Painting, you keep existing cabinet doors, so you are limited to the current style of the doors. With Refacing, all doors and drawer fronts are replaced, giving you many new style options.
  • Durability: Front + Center®’s engineered finish is 6 times thicker than paint for superior durability, cleanability, and longevity.
  • Installation: You can expect the prep work for paint and Refacing to be similar, but Refacing requires less labor overall and there is no cure time, so the kitchen will be available for immediate use. Additionally, Front + Center® doesn’t use any VOCs or hazardous materials in our engineered Fronts + Refacing Supplies.
Should I reface my doors before or after I get new countertops?
We recommend Refacing before installing new countertops. Countertop installers typically use caulking +/or silicone to hide gaps and to hold countertops in place​ that would need to be scraped off cabinets and re-applied after Refacing.
How do I find a PRO to reface my cabinets?
You can contact us at hello@myfrontandcenter.com and we’ll help you locate a Pro in your area. We are currently building our network of Front + Center® Pros, so if you know an independent contractor interested in learning Refacing, please encourage them to contact us to get exclusive pricing, tools, and Refacing training.

Our Products

Where do you make your products?

All of our products are proudly made in the USA! We have 420,000 square feet of manufacturing space across 5 different plants.

What are Front + Center doors made from?

Our doors and drawer fronts are made from a high quality, double-refined, 3/4″ engineered core provides a stable, consistent substrate. In our Seamless Styles – Shaker, Raised, and Flat – the profile detail is first routed into the core, then 3D Laminate (3DL) material is pressed onto the face and over the sides, creating a seamless bond between the face and sides of the Front. Our Miter Shaker doors are constructed the same way traditional wood doors are made, with the added benefit of using highly durable and consistent engineered materials. The result is a uniform appearance with true grain orientation. This means the grain flows with the stiles and rails of each component.

Do you have a warranty on your products?

Front + Center® warrants to the original purchaser that its components will be free from defects in material and workmanship under normal use for a period of FIVE YEARS from the invoice date, subject to the terms and conditions.

Click here to submit a Warranty Claim

Are your doors painted?

No. Our doors are finished with an engineered, non-porous 3D Laminate material that is 6x thicker than paint and resistant to scratches, stains, water, dirt and bacteria.

Do you offer glass-ready doors?

Yes, our Frame Doors are designed for use with glass and other inserts and are available in all our profiles and finishes. Frame Doors DO NOT include glass or inserts. We recommend you source glass locally to avoid shipping damage and to make sure you get what you want.

Do you offer cabinet boxes?

We currently do not offer cabinet boxes. However, many customers choose to pair our doors with IKEA cabinet boxes.

Do you offer pre-drilled holes for decorative hardware?

While all doors are pre-drilled for hinges, we do not currently offer pre-drilling for decorative hardware.

What's the difference between PSA and polyback?

Pressure Sensitive Adhesive (PSA) is thin, very flexible, and features a pressure-activated adhesive. Polyback is made from engineered material applied to a semi-rigid backer and is installed using contact adhesive. PSA is commonly used to apply a matching finish to face frames and other visible parts of the cabinet box during Refacing, and Polyback is commonly used instead of PSA when a more rigid material is needed, such as for worn cabinet boxes, or around islands.

How do I know how much PSA to order?

We recommend ordering one 4’x8’ sheet of PSA per 20 openings.

What's the difference between fillers and cut-to-size panels?

Fillers have a 1/16″ edge radius and are finished on the face and all edges. Fillers can be used in a traditional application or as a valance, crown moulding riser, or other trim. Cut-to-Size or “CTS” panels have raw edges and are commonly used when finishing cabinet ends and islands. 

Installation

I hammered the wrong hinge into the door, what should I do?

Press-in hinges can be unscrewed from the plastic dowels that they are attached to regardless of overlay. Unscrew the hinge from the door, remove the dowels from the correct hinge and re-install on the door.

How do I cover up nail holes where I attached trim and paneling?

Take a piece of PSA to your local hardware store or paint supplier and either match a color chip, or ask them to custom color match it for you. A sample size paint container will be sufficient for touch-ups in most cases.

How should I handle small openings if the refacing tools don't fit?

We recommend using a medium file for small openings. After trimming the PSA as close to the edge of the cabinet frame as possible, use a file to clean up the edges. Hold the file at a near 90-degree angle, and use a push motion, moving the file away from you). Do not pull the file back toward you as this can lift the PSA from the surface.

What's the difference between fillers and cut-to-size panels?

Fillers have a 1/16″ edge radius and are finished on the face and all edges. Fillers can be used in a traditional application or as a valance, crown moulding riser, or other trim. Cut-to-Size or “CTS” panels have raw edges and are commonly used when finishing cabinet ends and islands. 

How do I know how much PSA to order?

We recommend ordering one 4’x8’ sheet of PSA per 20 openings.

What should I do if the PSA isn't sticking?

Make sure you’ve completed all the recommended prep steps in this area, including applying at least two coats of Polycrylic to the face of the cabinets. All cleaning should be complete before you apply Polycrylic. Cleaning products can leave behind chemicals that interfere with the PSA’s pressure-activated adhesive.

What is my PSA isn't aligned properly when I apply it?

Before you apply pressure to the PSA, you can grab it from one end and quickly pull it off and reposition. Similar to quickly ripping off a bandage. Please note, once you apply pressure, you won’t be able to remove the PSA without damaging it.

How do I get rid of air bubbles or bumps under the PSA?

Bumps can occur when there is debris or nail heads that were not removed during prep. Before you apply PSA strips, use your hand to make sure the area is completely smooth. Eliminate air bubbles by pressing down firmly and smoothing them out towards the edge of the frame.

What should I do if the orange hand trimmer is getting stuck while cutting?

This can occur when you are trying to trim away too much PSA material. If there is more than one-half inch of PSA material overhanging the face of the frame, use a snap blade knife to trim away the excess.

My router leaves behind a small piece of CTS panel - how should I finish these ends?

This can occur when flush trimming up to the ceiling or countertop, and down to flooring. We recommend using an oscillating trimmer tool to finish up these cuts. Make sure the blade is flat with the face of cabinet and sand the edge smooth afterwards.

Care + Cleaning

How should I care for my newly refaced cabinets?

Keeping your new cabinets clean during typical kitchen use is quick and easy. Gently wipe all surfaces with a soft cloth or sponge and a mild soap and water solution.

How can I remove stains from my cabinets?

Clean stains by using common household cleaners without abrasives. Whenever possible, avoid spraying any product directly on the surface and test in a non-visible location. Always use a soft damp cloth or sponge to gently wipe the surface, 10-20 strokes should remove most stains.

How do I remove ink stains from my cabinets?

Diluted rubbing alcohol will remove most ink stains.

What's the best way to remove grease from my cabinets?

For degreasing, use a small amount of Dawn dish soap diluted, or Simple Green in a 50/50 mix with water.

What is the best way to disinfect cabinet surfaces?

Always clean the surface of any dirt prior to disinfecting (see Regular care instructions). Mix 4 Teaspoons bleach and 4 Cups water. Wearing disposable gloves, test for one minute in a non-visible location before wiping the entire surface (if you want to use reusable gloves that’s cool too, but they should be dedicated for cleaning and disinfecting only). NEVER mix household bleach with ammonia. Trust us.

Are there any cleaning products I should avoid using?
  • Products containing acetone, acid, and ammonia
  • Solvent based cleaners, paint thinners, wood preservatives
  • Any abrasive liquid or powder cleansers
  • Any abrasive material, brush, scouring pads or scraper
What's the difference between PSA and polyback?

Pressure Sensitive Adhesive (PSA) is thin, very flexible, and features a pressure-activated adhesive. Polyback is made from engineered material applied to a semi-rigid backer and is installed using contact adhesive. PSA is commonly used to apply a matching finish to face frames and other visible parts of the cabinet box during Refacing, and Polyback is commonly used instead of PSA when a more rigid material is needed, such as for worn cabinet boxes, or around islands.

How do I know how much PSA to order?

We recommend ordering one 4’x8’ sheet of PSA per 20 openings.

What's the difference between fillers and cut-to-size panels?

Fillers have a 1/16″ edge radius and are finished on the face and all edges. Fillers can be used in a traditional application or as a valance, crown moulding riser, or other trim. Cut-to-Size or “CTS” panels have raw edges and are commonly used when finishing cabinet ends and islands. 

Not finding the answers you’re looking for? Reach out to a refacing specialist via LiveChat or by giving us a call at 1-800-816-6422.

If you prefer to communicate over email, you can fill out our contact form and we’ll get back to you as soon as we can!